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Cusco is one of those cities where getting lost can be the best part of the experience. During my time there, I found myself wandering through narrow cobbled streets without much of a plan, following whatever caught my eye and discovering colonial buildings, hidden courtyards and ancient Inca walls along the way. There was just one small problem: Cusco sits at more than 3,400 metres above sea level, and my body needed a little time to understand that. During my first day or two, even climbing a flight of stairs felt like an achievement. I quickly learned to slow down, breathe and let the altitude become part of the experience. Coca tea became a welcome companion, and once I had started to acclimatize, I could finally appreciate just how extraordinary this city really is. Cusco has a fascinating dual personality. Around the Plaza de Armas, there are restaurants, hotels and shops catering to travellers from around the world, but wander a few streets farther and another Cusco emerges, one where local life continues among buildings and walls that carry the unmistakable legacy of the Inca Empire.

I loved simply walking through the city and allowing its history to reveal itself gradually. The Plaza de Armas was an obvious starting point, with its impressive Spanish colonial architecture and the Cathedral of Santo Domingo, built on top of the foundations of the Inca Temple of the Sun. That combination of cultures is visible throughout Cusco, sometimes beautifully and sometimes uncomfortably, and it is impossible to ignore the history beneath your feet. From the square, I wandered toward the San Blas neighbourhood, where steep cobbled streets, colourful buildings and small art studios gave the area a completely different atmosphere. Then there was San Pedro Market, one of those places where you can experience the everyday rhythm of the city. It was busy, colourful and wonderfully chaotic, filled with fresh produce, local food, handmade goods and the constant movement of people going about their day. Beyond the city, the Andes were always there on the horizon, reminding me that Cusco is not only a historic destination but also a gateway to some of Peru’s most spectacular landscapes. A walk toward Cristo Blanco offered wonderful views back across the city, while the Sacred Valley opened the door to another world of mountain villages, ancient sites and dramatic scenery.

And, of course, there was Machu Picchu. After several days of walking around Cusco and getting used to the altitude, I decided that my legs had earned a break and chose the train rather than hiking the Inca Trail. The journey itself was beautiful, with the landscape gradually changing from rugged Andean mountains to lush green valleys as the train moved toward Machu Picchu. For those who want the challenge, the Inca Trail offers an unforgettable adventure, but there is no shame in taking the easier route when the destination is one of the most extraordinary places on Earth. Looking back, though, Machu Picchu was only part of what made my time in Peru so memorable. Cusco deserves to be experienced in its own right, not simply treated as a stopping point before heading to the famous ruins. Give yourself time to wander, sit in a plaza, visit the markets, explore the surrounding mountains and allow the city to reveal its layers slowly. For me, Cusco was a place where ancient Inca history, Spanish colonial heritage, modern Peruvian life and the enormous Andes came together in a way I had never experienced anywhere else. I arrived expecting a gateway to Machu Picchu and left feeling that I had discovered a destination worthy of the journey all by itself. And somewhere among those winding streets, I think I left a small piece of myself behind.

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