Arequipa, The White City Beneath El Misti
The first thing I noticed about Arequipa was the light. It seemed to bounce from every wall, turning the city almost luminous beneath the enormous silhouette of El Misti volcano. Set high in the Peruvian Andes, Arequipa is known as the “White City,” a name inspired by the pale volcanic sillar stone used throughout its historic centre. But there is something deeper beneath that beautiful facade. This is a city shaped by volcanoes, earthquakes, Spanish colonialism, and centuries of Andean history—and walking through its streets feels like stepping into all of them at once.
My journey naturally led me toward the Plaza de Armas, the magnificent heart of Arequipa. The square is framed by elegant arcades and dominated by the Basilica Cathedral, whose imposing facade reflects the city’s Spanish colonial heritage. Yet Arequipa’s story did not begin with the conquistadors. Long before the Spanish arrived, the surrounding region was home to Indigenous cultures, and the fertile valleys around the city eventually became part of the Inca world. When the Spanish founded Arequipa in 1540, they built their new city upon this much older landscape.
Walking through the historic center, I began to understand why Arequipa feels so distinctive. The sillar stone isn’t simply beautiful—it is part of the city’s geological identity. Formed from volcanic material deposited by eruptions millions of years ago, the stone became the building material of churches, mansions, courtyards, and monasteries. But the same forces that created the stone have repeatedly threatened the city. Powerful earthquakes have struck Arequipa throughout its history, destroying buildings and forcing generations of architects and craftsmen to adapt. The result is an architecture that is both elegant and remarkably resilient.
Perhaps nowhere is that contrast more fascinating than at the Monastery of Santa Catalina. Entering its colorful passageways felt like discovering a hidden city within the city. Founded in 1579, the enormous monastery once housed Dominican nuns behind high walls, largely separated from the outside world. Its narrow streets, courtyards, vivid walls, and quiet cloisters create an atmosphere so atmospheric that it is easy to forget the busy city exists just beyond its gates. I found myself slowing down, wondering about the generations of women who once lived their entire lives within these walls.
But Arequipa isn’t a city that belongs only to the past. Outside the grand colonial buildings, everyday life continues at a wonderfully human pace. Markets overflow with fruit, vegetables, spices, and local ingredients, while picanterías fill with the aromas of dishes that are as much a part of Arequipa’s identity as its architecture. Rocoto relleno, adobo arequipeño, and chupe de camarones offer a taste of a culinary tradition shaped by both Andean ingredients and centuries of cultural exchange. Here, food isn’t simply something to eat—it is part of the story.
The surrounding landscape adds another dimension to the experience. El Misti watches over the city like a permanent guardian, while beyond the urban streets the Andes stretch toward places such as the spectacular Colca Canyon. The mountains also hold their own secrets. In 1995, archaeologists discovered the remarkably preserved remains of an Inca girl on Mount Ampato. Known as Juanita, or the Inca Ice Maiden, her discovery provided a haunting glimpse into the rituals and beliefs of the Inca world.
What stayed with me most, however, wasn’t a particular monument. It was the feeling of moving through a city where history and ordinary life exist side by side. A centuries-old stone wall could stand beside a modern café; a quiet colonial courtyard could open onto a noisy street; a market vendor could be preparing food using traditions passed down through generations. Arequipa never felt like a museum. It felt alive.
By late afternoon, the harsh Andean sunlight softened, and the white buildings began to glow against the darker mountains. I found myself looking back toward El Misti, thinking about how many generations had stood beneath that same volcano. Conquistadors, Indigenous communities, monks, merchants, artisans, travelers—all had left their marks on this extraordinary place.
Leaving Arequipa, I realized that its greatest attraction isn’t simply its beautiful architecture or dramatic scenery. It is the way the city brings together geology, history, culture, food, and everyday life into one unforgettable landscape. Arequipa doesn’t reveal everything at once. You have to wander, look beyond the obvious, and let the city gradually tell you its story. And beneath the shadow of El Misti, that story is one I was reluctant to leave behind.
