Sun-kissed beaches and lush rice terraces are usually what draw travellers to Bali, but a completely different world waits beneath the waves. Having spent a couple of months soaking up the island culture, I found myself drawn to the legendary dive sites of the north coast.

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I set off for Tulamben, eager to explore the famous underwater realm where marine life and human history collide.

Descending into the clear blue water, I caught my breath as a massive manta ray glided past. These ocean giants sail through the currents with weightless elegance, making you feel tiny and utterly humbled. Yet the true highlight of Tulamben rests just off the stony shore—the USAT Liberty.

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The story of the USAT Liberty is a fascinating slice of history. Originally an American cargo ship during World War II, she was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942 while carrying railway ties and rubber through the Lombok Strait. Damaged but operational, two Allied destroyers towed her toward Singaraja, but she took on too much water and was beached on the black shores of Tulamben. The ship sat rusted on the coast for over two decades until 1963, when Mount Agung erupted violently. Tremors and rivers of volcanic debris pushed the giant hull off the beach and into the ocean, sending her down to her final resting place just below the surface.

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Today, nature has completely reclaimed the iron structure. Soft corals flourish over the steel plates, transforming a relic of war into a thriving sanctuary for sea turtles, schooling parrotfish, and lurking reef sharks. Navigating through the shadows of the wreck with my camera, I tried to capture the surreal beauty of marine life living within man-made history. Balancing the shifting currents while framing a shot takes patience, but the memory of the light filtering through the submerged frame is unforgettable.

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Safety is top-notch with local dive masters, who know every hidden nook of the reef and ensure seamless entry even for beginners. Beyond the diving, living in Bali fosters a deep appreciation for its rich heritage, where ancient traditions shape every daily detail.

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